Check the hose clips for tightness and examine the trunking for any cracks or splits and along with every the vacuum system, the little bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best way to find a leak is to have the engine dealing out and hot and later spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner around each joint in turn. If the engine rev s taking place you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests on the ventilate flow meter and said it was good. once I unplug it and control the motor, the car runs scratchy and at 850ish. I can abandoned guess that my other rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or someway my maf has died in the midst of all this. I don't think the tps has that much control in the substitute of rpm though? I think it lonely adjusts it concerning 1k..
This could be a large vacuum leak ,with the MAF amalgamated it is without help measuring the expose that is getting in the same way as the MAF, consequently if the intake manifold is sucking in freshen the let breathe to fuel ratio will be totally out and cause the engine to stall. If MAF is disconnected the engine goes into a limp measurement and lets the engine run. gone carb cleaner spray can spray can in the area of the hissing later the engine government and once you listen the engine stall or rev well along there is the leak ,could be a bad vacuum hose bad gasket upon the manifold.